(Update: when I wrote this, I couldn’t find the contact info for him but just recently found it. He quickly countered my skepticism with a plea to Google the term and that I’d find a plethora of advice on how to do it. I got exactly two calls on it-one by one of the techs at the shop who diagnosed it originally to ask if I’d ruled-out the Nvidia issue (doh!) and the other by a guy who was tempted to buy it to try to fix it, but just didn’t have the time-he asked if I had considered “baking the logic board”. I determined that the time and effort involved in managing that many auctions wasn’t worth it and posted it on Craigslist. I was faced with trying to sell the dead MBP on Craigslist or ebay whole for $600 or try to recover more by dismantling it out and selling the parts on ebay and maybe be able to make up to $800. I also found a resource that I might consider as well if I had to face the issue of replacing the logic board again DT&T Service claims they can replace my model logic board with a refurb for $450. I’ve since gathered the necessary courage (and tools) to do it myself, so I could save the labor charges in the future. Which that meant it would be in the neighborhood of $1000-1200 to replace logic board ($800 logic board + labor)-which is not much less than the $1200-1400 my system in good condition was going for on ebay. Which AppleCare concluded that it would not fall under the Nvidia replacement program. Since the system would not even get past the initial boot phases, there was no way to even diagnose any other problems. We were hoping that it would fall under the Nvidia Graphics chip issue so that Apple would cover the replacement (note to self: on future MacBook Pro purchases: Get the full three-year AppleCare coverage!). Tried to insert original system install disk and boot from that, all to no avail.Īfter going through the Apple Support boards, I could not determine a culprit and since there are no Apple Stores closer than the 330 miles to Seattle yet (soon in Spokane I hear), I resorted to taking my system to the only certified Apple Repair shop in Spokane. I tried all the start-up key combinations to start in safe-mode, reset PRAM, start diagnosis-nothing worked. While I could hear the hard drive spin up and the optical drive go through its start-up whirrings, there was no start-up chime and no effort to display anything on screen. After powering it down, I tried to start it back up. After futilely trying to wake it by varying degrees of banging on random keys and quickly pressing the power button I waited several minutes before I committed to powering it down. The next morning I noticed that the glowing power light on the latch release was off and thought it strange and then went to open and wake it and nothing happened. I also needed to get this post up before I forgot most of the details.Īs a little background, I put my MBP (17″ 2.5GHz-early 2008, Model A1261 to be exact for you that are searching) to sleep by closing it up for the night, which I’ve done for the past 2+ years with no problems. From a white board view, one should never mix memory chips.Well, it’s taken me a little while to get this post up-not to mention the fact that its taken me a long while to get any posts up-but I thought this one was worth it just as an encouragement for anyone else who might be dealing with a fried MacBook Pro logic board that is out of the AppleCare warranty coverage. When buying/installing memory, its best to ensure all GBs are the same speed and same company chips. Thus, lower inside temps as well - because less paging to its disk (which creates heat). By installing more memory (re: 8 GBs total instead of 4 GBs), your iMac could do less "disk thrashing". Use included Activity monitor to investigate memory usage and its "disk thrashing" behaviour. If you feel your iMac is "paging in/out" too much while "under load", it will make your CPU and HDD work much harder. This works great for my iMac as well.Īlso. And, set threshold values to 30C (low end) and 75C (high end). Try setting your fans to minimum at 1,400 RPMs as well. re: currently now 17 C to "max" 36 C range. Its internal temps are much cooler (when compared to factory defaults). Its HDD fan, Optical drive fan and CPU fans are all set to 1500 RPMs. I have a mid-2010 iMac 21.5" with optional SMCFan Control installed.
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